Your baggy suit is making you uncomfortable, and your too-tight suit is making us uncomfortable. Here’s how to find the middle ground.

Virgin-wool suit ($1,395) by Billy Reid; Cotton shirt ($245) by Billy Reid Heirloom; Silk tie ($125) by Billy Reid Heirloom; Leather wing tips ($395) by Billy Reid.

1. Shoulders

The seam of your shoulder should end where your shoulder ends, and any padding or rigid structure that adds so much as a millimeter of unnecessary shape will throw the whole thing off balance.

2. Waist

The guys wearing pants that sit a few inches below a pronounced beer belly? They’re not fooling anyone‚ÄĒin fact, they’re only drawing attention to the extra pounds. The waist of your pants should always sit about two inches below your navel.

3. Sleeve

Make sure that there is nothing billowy about how the jacket frames your biceps‚ÄĒthe best jackets today follow the natural contours of your upper arm, and if you’ve got chicken wings, a tailor can likely take in the fabric. The sleeves should stop where the arm ends and the thumb begins.

4. Legs

Slightly roomier in the thigh and slightly tapered below the knee.

5. Jacket Length

Your jacket should stop at your knuckles or around the bottom of your zipper.

6. Trouser Length

Are those your ankles we see? No? Good.


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